SUP Along the Qingshui Cliffs of Hualien

The Qingshui Cliffs of Hualien are iconic in Taiwan. The towering rock wall rise sharply out of the beautiful turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean, reminiscent of the Hawaiian archipelago. I have explored this area extensively over the years. Hualien County is practically my second home within Taiwan. I often will look down towards the milky blue waters from above, as I sit perched for sunrise. I have never, however, been IN the water below. I finally got that opportunity a couple weeks ago with OwlTing Experiences for the sunrise SUP tour along the Qingshui Cliffs.

My trip started from Taipei the night before, taking the slow train in to Xincheng Station, arriving at 12:30ish in the morning. It was raining and there were no taxis available at that hour to get me to Chongde. What would have been a 10 minute drive turned into a 40 minute walk in the rain. Eager to find a quick spot to guerrilla camp, I happened across a covered basketball court roughly 5 minutes from the start point of the tour. Fantastic.

After setting up the tent, changing out of my wet clothes, and getting comfortable I looked at the clock. 1:34 am. My alarm was set for 4:15, knowing I needed to take down my makeshift campsite and, more importantly go find coffee before meeting the team for our SUP tour at 5:30am. Sleep was fleeting, but my excitement for the sunrise SUP activity was all I needed (and coffee).

 I arrived to Andy’s SUP house to gear up and go over the necessary details of the day. We had a group of seven total, with three guides to make sure we were safe and sound. We got fitted for wetsuits, life jackets, and waterproof shoes. Andy, the main man behind the operation, showed all of us the proper way to position our bodies on the board, how to hold the paddle, and how to use our momentum and legs to successfully paddle out on the open ocean. I have to shout out Bella here, because I was the only foreign adventurer on the trip, Bella helped translate what I didn’t understand, and was super helpful the whole day!

After about 30 minutes we piled into the van and headed for the coast. Considering the weather that we had in the weeks leading up to this day, we really lucked out. The sky was cloudy, but no rain, and it looked like we might actually get a sunrise.

Upon arrival to the black pebble beach, the skies were brightening up and the waves were crashing down. The swell was intimidating, as it looked like it would be a bumpy ride on the SUP boards. The anxiety turned to excitement the more I gazed at the coastline. Qingshui Cliffs truly is stunning. The cloudy turquoise waters, or as they are called in Taiwan, “blue milk,” is due to the shale and schist sediment falling off the cliffs. Its truly a sight to see from the cliffs themselves, but I never imagined how beautiful it would look floating over the divide from milky turquoise to deep blue.

We had further instruction from Andy on the coast, about how exactly to get beyond the surf with our boards and paddles. Basically, wait for a lull in the waves and charge full speed ahead! I waited a few breaks and I was off. We had full wetsuits and lifejackets, so the water temperature felt perfect. I imagine when summer comes, and the temperature gets to the 30’s, no wetsuit will be needed.

We cruised north along the cliffs, just far enough outside of the shore break to stay safe from inadvertent waves. Now, I have experience with SUP in the past, and going into this I thought I would be just fine. Of course, that was some years ago and this was the open ocean on a big swell day. I was getting tossed around like a rag doll the first few times I tried to stand up! But with good coaching, more focus, and a lot of laughter, I was able to stand up and cruise along the coast for a while.

We paddled out as a group for about 300 meters as the sun rose, then returned the same way. The whole time we were laughing with each other as each person fell gracelessly into the refreshing blue ocean. We would congratulate each other when we triumphed and stood up. Some of us were even able to take on rolling swells, get some photos taken of us, and pose before tumbling back into the ocean! 

As we returned to the vehicle, we had one more challenge upon us. Get onto the beach without the board and paddle washing away with the waves. Andy and Bella were there to help guide us. Lie back, and ride the wave in until we could stand up freely. Luckily we all handled this well!

We rested with hot tea, provided by the SUP team, and watched as the “Jesus light” came shooting out of the clouds above. The team helped us take photos with our board, and we returned to change clothes and get on with the rest of the day, with all smiles and laughter from the group.

Getting this experience with OwlTing Experiences was incredible. It showed me a piece of Taiwan that I know so well, but never had the pleasure of experiencing it from this perspective.  It was truly an awesome morning, and I’m ready for summer so I can go again!

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For this trip and more fun activities around Taiwan, check out OwlTing Experiences!

Snow Mountain (雪山) Trekking

Taiwan is home to some incredibly challenging and beautiful high mountain peaks. Most of the challenging treks are more off the radar, but one peak to get your blood pumping is Snow Mountain! Snow Mountain has a few peaks of varying difficulty, and require different permits to climb. Recently we took a trip up Snow Mountain Main Peak, Taiwan’s second highest peak. Check the trip below!

Day 1

We chose to camp in Wuling Farms campground, where we find it more comfortable than spending night one in Qika Hut with other hikers. There is always the chance to see wildlife here, especially Formosan Rock Macaques and Red and White Giant Flying Squirrels. Were were greeted by both at night, which tells you locking up food is important!

Japanese White Faced Flying Squirrel hanging out above the campsite.

Day 2

After checking in at the police station its time to hit the trailhead! Generally a short, informative video on Snow Mountain and mountain safety is screened to all climbers at the trailhead ranger station. Because it was a weekday, the station was closed. We continue on for 2km, mostly straight up switchbacks, until Qika Hut. Many people choose to sleep here on Day 1, and continue to 369 Cabin on Day 2, we chose to treat this as a quick rest stop before powering on towards the East Peak.

While winding up the mountain and through the forest keep your eyes out for Reeve’s Muntjacs, Serows, Formosan Rock Macaques, and all of the varied bird species scattered throughout. The trail to East Peak takes roughly 2 hours from Qika Hut, but before reaching the peak you’ll have to climb whats known as the “Crying Slope.” It looks more intimidating that it is! After roughly 30 minutes the East Peak is in sight!

Hiking up the Crying Slope.

After ascending to the East Peak of Snow Mountain (3201m), it’s a short trip down to 369 Cabin (3100m) where we rest for the night. The trip is roughly 5 hours of hiking and can be done with enough time for a nap and a sunset viewing.

A massive rainbow descends over the mountains at sunset.

Day 3

We wake up early, 2:00am, to depart by 2:30am. This allows us enough time to reach the Main Peak for sunrise. The climb is challenging from here, through the black forest, up the steep slope of loose rock. It gets very dark inside the black forest, and in turn, exhilarating. Under the glow of our headlamps we spotted sleeping deer, and heard numerous amphibians, owls, and more. 

After three hours and a brutal last kilometer uphill, the peak is in reach! Snow Mountain Main Peak is Taiwan and East Asia’s second tallest mountain peak. From here it is easy to see the majority of high mountains in Taiwan. We had an amazing sunrise, complete with high fives and big smiles shared with every hiker who came up after us.

The trail up to Snow Mountain Main Peak.

Looking down at the basin lends a feeling of gratitude, amazement, and accomplishment. Its an easier trek down, where we eat breakfast and drink coffee at 369 Cabin before cruising towards the trailhead.

Looking down at the basin from Snow Mountain Main Peak.

One motivation for ascending at night is to see the sunrise from the peak. There is no better feeling to us than watching a new day rise from the top of Taiwan’s tallest mountains.

Formosan Serow hopping around the Black Forest.

Another perhaps unexpected joy of ascending at night, is the experience of descending through the terrain you conquered with a headlamp. The Black Forest on Snow Mountain is spectacular. The beauty of the pines and junipers surround you, while birds and wildlife come alive in the wee hours of the morning. On this particular trip the endemic Taiwan Serow graced us with its presence!

After the trek down the mountain we pack up the car and head back to Taipei! Snow Mountain is an epic climb, and if you are interested in experiencing this for yourself, you can contact me.