Ancient Tree Groves of Smangus and Zhenxibao

Deep in the mountains of Hsinchu you can find Taiwan’s most remote indigenous village. At 1500 meters elevation, Smangus (司馬庫斯) has had an air of mystery surrounding it for many years. The Atayal village is known as a leader in community based tourism, keeping their authentic culture intact while only opening up to tourists in 1995,when the road to the village was first built. I recently had the chance to return to Smangus’ Ancient Tree Grove, as well as the Zhenxibao (鎮西堡) Ancient Tree Grove with OwlTing Experiences for a weekend of hiking, culture, and relaxation. 

Getting to Smangus (司馬庫斯)

The day started early, as we were meeting outside Banqiao Train Station at 7am. This is necessary if you want to hike the Smangus Ancient Tree Grove on the same day as your arrival. 

We took a couple vans, with hired drivers, up to the mountain villages. The drive from Taipei is roughly 3.5 to 4 hours, and once in the mountains the roads can get a bit dicey. I did notice that the roads seem to have been paved recently, and have improved greatly from my last trip here a few years ago. Back then I wouldn’t recommend driving yourself, but now it’s definitely possible.  

Smangus Ancient Tree Grove

The Hike

Once we arrived, we were able to hike at our own pace, or as the group leader says, we were treated as fellow mountaineers. This was a welcomed surprise, because this was my first time being in a group of strangers where I wasn’t leading. I was worried I would have to follow in a line and not have the freedom to roam, take photos, etc. Thankfully not the case! 

Last time I was here it was Autumn, so the vibe of the forest was completely different. This time, in the summer, the greens were so vibrant, the streams were full, and the threat of summer rain was real!

The Smangus Giant Tree Trail begins at the beautifully built restaurant cafe, which overlooks the mountains and valley below. The hike to the ancient tree grove is 5km, along a relatively flat trail. Possibly the most famous aspect of the trail, other than the ancient cypress trees, is the initial bamboo forest you hike through. 

The towering bamboo shoots up, converging above to let slivers of sunlight through the creaking stalks. It’s definitely a beautiful experience, and there are ample hand crafted benches to sit down and soak it up. 

Continuing down the trail the forest opens up a bit and you’ll have some views of the valley and surrounding mountains. The trail continues through gorgeous broadleaf forests, at a moderate level. 

After 5km of hiking you will reach the Ancient Tree Grove! This little pocket of forest meanders in a circle around beautiful streams and thousand year old cypress trees. Due to the summer rains, the forest was beautifully damp, giving the ferns, and other flora a particular vibrance that is just enchanting. 

The largest tree in Smangus’ grove is the third largest tree in Taiwan, with a base about 16m in diameter. 

After exploring the grove, and taking in the massive thousand year old red cypress trees, I headed back to the village before the thunderstorm arrived. 

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The Village

We didn’t spend the night in the main Qalang Smangus, but we drove over to the other side of the valley to stay closer to Zhenxibao forest, in Xinguang (新光). The drive from the Smangus tree grove trail takes about an hour over the winding mountains roads. 

Before heading to our homestay accommodation for the night, we got to take part in a special indigenous Atayal song and dance, as well as make mochi. An old woman, dressed in traditional clothing sang to us, as we rhythmically clapped along. She, her daughter, son, and grandchildren then all taught us how to dance along to the song. The mood was magical. We all listened to the beautiful singing voices of the grandmother and father, and the little boys try their best to be singing stars. 

After the singing and dancing, we all got to pitch in and make mochi together. This involved holding a massive club and pounding the sticky rice while the elder used a stick to flip the sticky rice over in between poundings. We all had a chance to pulverize the sticky rice into that sweet mochi. The club itself isn’t so heavy, but it feels super glued to the rice when you try to pry it free for another round. 

After many rounds, we got to taste the delicious, freshly made mochi. Roll it around in a pile of ground up peanuts, and pop it in the mouth! 

We spent the night in a shared room homestay, and prepared for the next day’s hike through Zhenxibao forest. Before bed though, I noticed how clear the sky was and decided to go take some photos. Even without the camera, the Milky Way was visible! It was so incredible, I couldn’t remember the last time I saw the Milky Way in the night’s sky like that. 

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Cinsbus Giant Tree Trail

The Hike

We had a 7:00am breakfast, then we were off to Zhenxibao’s Cinsbus Giant Tree Trail. This hike is more difficult than Smangus’ Ancient Tree Grove, but not by all that much. The trail is a bit longer, roughly 13km round trip, and passes by many more thousand year old red cypress trees. The trees through this forest are a bit more distinct, with the more famous trees known as “Adam,” “Eve,” and “The King.”

The trail begins in the dirt car park and climbs up a gradual incline for a few kilometers, weaving through beautiful mossy trees and over running streams. The early morning sunshine is peaking through the forest, illuminating the leaves in a spectacular way. The birds are active, chirping and jumping from branch to branch, seemingly following us on the trail as we hike. 

I went ahead of the group, hiking at a faster pace. I’m always keen to really hear and feel the sounds of the forests, and sometimes that isn’t possible when others are around you. 

There’s a junction along the trail, with one route going up to the more strenuous Grove A, and eventually to Poison Dragon Pond (毒龍潭). The most popular is Grove B, because it has far more ancient cypress trees and is a bit more moderate of a trail to hike. We went to Grove B, which allows for a really beautiful hike at a nice pace. 

Along the circular trail of Grove B are the famous thousand year old cypress trees. Adam and Eve, named because of their similarities to certain biological features, are each over a thousand years old. The oldest in the grove, and I think the most impressive, is called The King. This tree dates over 2,500 years old! 

Overall, the whole forest of Cinsbus is impressive. The ancient cypress trees are abundant, and the hiking is not so strenuous as to take away from the beauty of the area. I truly recommend this trip to explore Smangus and Zhenxibao. It is a fantastic escape to authentic indigenous culture and some of Taiwan’s fairytale-like forests. 

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FOR THIS FUN TRIP AND MORE EXPERIENCES LIKE IT, CHECK OUT OWLTING EXPERIENCES

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Kayaking Along the Qingshui Cliffs

In the last few months I have explored the Qingshui Cliffs from the Pacific Ocean twice as many times as I have in the five plus years living in Taiwan. That is to say, I’ve been two times in the last few months, once by SUP and most recently by kayak. I’m going to recount my kayaking trip along the cliffs with OwlTing Experiences, but if you’d like to see more about SUP, read this.

My day started at 3am, which is always rough, but I’m used to it from my mountain trekking experiences. As I’ve always said, you have to earn a sunrise!

I was staying at my go to hostel in Hualien, the Lazy House, and this time had the comfort of knowing I would be picked up by my kayak guide at 3:30 am. So I walked down the street to 7-11, got a coffee, and relaxed outside and waited. So far the easiest attempt at viewing sunrise thus far.

My guide Liber, from Moonyak, picked me up and he brought me to get suited up with a helmet, water shoes, and a lifejacket. I went through some brief instruction on paddling a kayak, and I was off! We drove to the beach at Chongde and waited for the perfect opportunity to get in the water. There were a ton of other groups out there this morning, larger parties and people who seemingly had less experience on the open water, more on their experience later. Let’s just say I was really grateful to have a private sunrise kayak session with my guide, who let me go at my own pace. 

The colors were starting to poke out over the horizon, and it looked like a beautiful sunrise was on the way. Pleasantly surprised after weeks straight of plum rains, we got in the water and slowly made our way along the coastline.

Now, I can’t stress this enough. Being in the Pacific Ocean, along the staggering cliffs of Taiwan’ east coast, is incredible. The ocean’s color varies as you move through it. I kayaked from  a cloudy sediment filled milk-blue, to a tropical turquoise, to a deeper hue. The sky was opening up and the oranges and blues started to fill the sky as the big orange sun poked out over the horizon, leaving a gorgeous reflection seemingly pointed straight at us. 

Me and Liber were casually cruising along, letting the larger groups race ahead so we didn’t have to be grouped in the cluster. It was a great time to just sit and take in the sunrise, in the calming movements of the ocean’s swells. I have to say I could not have enjoyed myself and my time in the water if I had been with one of those large groups. There is something very unappealing about kayaking in a group of 20 people who don’t know how to do it. Thankfully with Moonyak and my guy Liber, we avoided those big crowds and had the serene feeling of the ocean all to ourselves. As the crowds passed and the sun rose, we continued along the cliffs. The benefit of kayaking as opposed to SUP is that you can physically go further along the cliffs. We went practically to the ever popular viewing platform along the road, roughly 2km on the water. Along the way, while we were putting in the work to kayak, we noticed one group literally BEING TOWED TO THE END POINT AND BACK. This is what I mean. Why on earth would you sign up for a kayaking trip just to get towed by a boat while sitting in a kayak. That’s absolutely insane to me, insane that a tour provider would even consider doing that, and insane that customers would be content with that experience. 

Again, I was so thankful to be with a tour provider who allowed me the full experience, and the freedom to go at my own pace. 

One thing that was pretty cool to see was a landslide on the cliffs, all the way down to the beach. Apparently there was an earthquake, as there are every day in Taiwan, and the rocks broke free above. We sat from our kayaks and watched the rocks tumble down the cliff towards the beach. They landed with a big THUD, and all we could think about was the brilliant idea to close the old Su’Ao highway and bore tunnels instead. 

We made it to a few rocks jutting out at the base of the Qingshui Cliffs and turned back around. The water was choppier there, and if we had gone any further it would have made for some rough kayaking. We took our time heading back, jumped off the kayaks and took a swim, marveling at our surroundings and how stunning they were. 

As we got back to the beach, we rode the waves into the shore on our kayaks. My attempt wasn’t graceful, I almost flipped over, but it was good enough to get safely on the shore. All in all the trip was about 3 hours and well worth the early wake up. EARN THAT SUNRISE!

Overall this was an amazing experience, and the people at Moonyak, especially Liber, were awesome through the whole process. It’s a tough call to choose between SUP and kayaking along the Qingshui Cliffs, so I encourage you to give both a shot and make the decision yourselves!

FOR THIS FUN TRIP AND MORE AROUND TAIWAN, CHECK OUT OWLTING EXPERIENCES

Datong Village - The Mountains Above Taroko

Taroko Gorge National Park, Hualien County, Taiwan

Datong and Dali villages are nestled in the mountains of Taroko Gorge National Park. Tucked away from the tourist location below, the people are able to live their life unobstructed. With views overlooking the Shakadang Gorge, the Pacific Ocean, and the rest of Taroko, you will find peace and relaxation here. People get away from their devices and connect with one another in the mountains of Taroko. Coming here you will learn about the history of the tribe, the self sufficient nature of those still around, and soak in the pure beauty of this special location.

 Take a train down the east coast of Taiwan until you reach Xincheng Station in Hualien County. Transfer to Taroko Gorge National Park, either via taxi outside the station, or by shuttle bus, where varied mountain peaks, numerous waterfalls, diverse plant forms and animal life, together with the indigenous Taroko people, create a rich texture of a unique and natural ecosystem.

There are a couple different ways to reach the villages. If you would like to explore Dali Village, you will begin from the Taroko Visitor Center and hike the Dekalun trail, to Dali Village. This is a steep hike, full of stairs through the jungle. Keep your eyes out for Formosan Rock Macaques, various bird species and reptiles! After roughly 2.5 hours you will come to Dali Village. Dali is a great stop for lunch and views. Still standing are old houses and a landscape full of vibrant flora and vegetable crops.

From Dali Village there are two ways to get to Datong Village, and the beautiful DaDaoDeJia (達道的家) overlooking Datong. The more intense hike involves the TongLi trail, linking Dali village and Datong Village. This trail winds along the mountainside, in more overgrown vegetation and unstable ground. The second option is to go back the way you came until you reach the old logging road. This will take you directly to the homestay.

All in all, its about a 4 hour hike to DaDaoDeJia (達道的家), the indigenous homestay, for the night. The best part is the welcome feast and views like no other within Taroko Gorge.

There isn’t much of a plan while up here. Just relax, break out that book you’ve been reading, drink some tea and decompress. Walking around the vegetable gardens and the cliff views is always nice. At night relax and keep warm by the fire while gazing at the stars above.

Early morning wake up for a short hike up the mountain cliff to view sunrise over the Pacific Ocean. The vista sits over 1,000 meters above the ocean below, with the lights of the coastal towns lighting up the night while awaiting the sun’s arrival.

After sunrise, take a slow walk down the slippery mountainside to the homestay for breakfast, coffee and tea before packing up and saying goodbye the hosts, Amay and Dingxi.

This is a truly incredible trip in Taiwan. If you are looking to get away from the crowds, connect with a culture of old, and relax in stunning nature, this is your best bet!

How Much

The home stays in Dali and Datong villages are at a fixed price. Per person the cost is 1200 NT. Inclusive of dinner and breakfast, bedding, tea, water and coffee. My favorite place is DaDaoDeJia (達道的家), as it overlooks all the other houses and gorge.

How to Get There

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SUP Along the Qingshui Cliffs of Hualien

The Qingshui Cliffs of Hualien are iconic in Taiwan. The towering rock wall rise sharply out of the beautiful turquoise waters of the Pacific Ocean, reminiscent of the Hawaiian archipelago. I have explored this area extensively over the years. Hualien County is practically my second home within Taiwan. I often will look down towards the milky blue waters from above, as I sit perched for sunrise. I have never, however, been IN the water below. I finally got that opportunity a couple weeks ago with OwlTing Experiences for the sunrise SUP tour along the Qingshui Cliffs.

My trip started from Taipei the night before, taking the slow train in to Xincheng Station, arriving at 12:30ish in the morning. It was raining and there were no taxis available at that hour to get me to Chongde. What would have been a 10 minute drive turned into a 40 minute walk in the rain. Eager to find a quick spot to guerrilla camp, I happened across a covered basketball court roughly 5 minutes from the start point of the tour. Fantastic.

After setting up the tent, changing out of my wet clothes, and getting comfortable I looked at the clock. 1:34 am. My alarm was set for 4:15, knowing I needed to take down my makeshift campsite and, more importantly go find coffee before meeting the team for our SUP tour at 5:30am. Sleep was fleeting, but my excitement for the sunrise SUP activity was all I needed (and coffee).

 I arrived to Andy’s SUP house to gear up and go over the necessary details of the day. We had a group of seven total, with three guides to make sure we were safe and sound. We got fitted for wetsuits, life jackets, and waterproof shoes. Andy, the main man behind the operation, showed all of us the proper way to position our bodies on the board, how to hold the paddle, and how to use our momentum and legs to successfully paddle out on the open ocean. I have to shout out Bella here, because I was the only foreign adventurer on the trip, Bella helped translate what I didn’t understand, and was super helpful the whole day!

After about 30 minutes we piled into the van and headed for the coast. Considering the weather that we had in the weeks leading up to this day, we really lucked out. The sky was cloudy, but no rain, and it looked like we might actually get a sunrise.

Upon arrival to the black pebble beach, the skies were brightening up and the waves were crashing down. The swell was intimidating, as it looked like it would be a bumpy ride on the SUP boards. The anxiety turned to excitement the more I gazed at the coastline. Qingshui Cliffs truly is stunning. The cloudy turquoise waters, or as they are called in Taiwan, “blue milk,” is due to the shale and schist sediment falling off the cliffs. Its truly a sight to see from the cliffs themselves, but I never imagined how beautiful it would look floating over the divide from milky turquoise to deep blue.

We had further instruction from Andy on the coast, about how exactly to get beyond the surf with our boards and paddles. Basically, wait for a lull in the waves and charge full speed ahead! I waited a few breaks and I was off. We had full wetsuits and lifejackets, so the water temperature felt perfect. I imagine when summer comes, and the temperature gets to the 30’s, no wetsuit will be needed.

We cruised north along the cliffs, just far enough outside of the shore break to stay safe from inadvertent waves. Now, I have experience with SUP in the past, and going into this I thought I would be just fine. Of course, that was some years ago and this was the open ocean on a big swell day. I was getting tossed around like a rag doll the first few times I tried to stand up! But with good coaching, more focus, and a lot of laughter, I was able to stand up and cruise along the coast for a while.

We paddled out as a group for about 300 meters as the sun rose, then returned the same way. The whole time we were laughing with each other as each person fell gracelessly into the refreshing blue ocean. We would congratulate each other when we triumphed and stood up. Some of us were even able to take on rolling swells, get some photos taken of us, and pose before tumbling back into the ocean! 

As we returned to the vehicle, we had one more challenge upon us. Get onto the beach without the board and paddle washing away with the waves. Andy and Bella were there to help guide us. Lie back, and ride the wave in until we could stand up freely. Luckily we all handled this well!

We rested with hot tea, provided by the SUP team, and watched as the “Jesus light” came shooting out of the clouds above. The team helped us take photos with our board, and we returned to change clothes and get on with the rest of the day, with all smiles and laughter from the group.

Getting this experience with OwlTing Experiences was incredible. It showed me a piece of Taiwan that I know so well, but never had the pleasure of experiencing it from this perspective.  It was truly an awesome morning, and I’m ready for summer so I can go again!

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For this trip and more fun activities around Taiwan, check out OwlTing Experiences!

Wuliaojian: All the info you need for the hike!

Hiking Wuliaojian in Taiwan

Taipei Hiking

Wuliaojian (五寮尖) is one of the best, most interactive day hikes around Taipei. And for good reason! Start your day climbing steep slopes and up rugged terrain towards the many peaks which give way to a perfect 360 degree panorama. While you take in the views, descend down treacherous ridges. Chance seeing monkeys and other intriguing wildlife along the way as you continue. As you finish, you are guaranteed to want another round!

From your arrival to the trailhead, the ascent winds up a fairly gradual climb, including ropes, ladders, and rocks. Wuliaojian is an extremely interactive climb from the beginning until the end.

The high narrow ridges at the top will provide stunning 360 views and the proper mix of fear and excitement. The highlight of the hike is no doubt the 30-meter rope descent. On a weekend there will most likely be a queue for it, but the feature is well worth the time. There are two ropes to descend, the first being shorter and the second being the longest.

The trail has maps with different routes to get back to the trailhead. From the giant tree go straight down and you’ll be back in 30 minutes or so. Take care on the way down as it can be tough on the knees and slippery after rain!

How to get there?

From Dingpu MRT Station (B01), take a taxi roughly 20-30 minutes to the Wuliaojian trailhead. Getting back can be tricky, as buses are scarce. Ask the taxi to pick you up at a certain time when you’ve finished hiking.

You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, or Youtube for more photos and videos of Taiwan’s adventurous side!

Taipei 101 Skyline 460 Tour

If you have ever been to Taipei, or even considered traveling to Taiwan, there is a 100% chance you know about Taipei 101. From 2004 - 2010 it was known as the tallest building in the world at 508 meters. Taipei 101 towers over the rest of Taipei City. It’s truly an impressive building, meant to resemble bamboo stalks with their notches. However, I was once told it looked like a bunch of take out boxes stacked in to each other, and now I can’t unsee it.

Most people who travel to Taiwan only get just that, a look from the outside. I recently had the chance to see the opposite. MyTaiwanTour brought me to the TOP of Taipei 101, to experience the Skyline 460 Tour and see the views of Taipei City and the surrounding mountains.

The experience begins by taking an elevator at light speed to the 88th floor. Here we got to see the massive damper hanging in the middle of the building. This damper was built because Taipei 101 is still the largest building to stand in an earthquake zone. The damper is meant to help Taipei 101 withstand earthquakes that hit up to 9 on the Richter scale, as well as prevent any damage from strong typhoon winds.

The 89th floor is generally where most will end their trip within Taipei 101. The enclosed observation deck offers views from behind thick glass windows, lots of souvenir shops, and art installments. With MyTaiwanTour we were able to continue our trip up to the 101st floor, and with perfect timing too.

We arrived on the Skyline 460 deck just in time for sunset over Taipei City, where we could see all the way out to Bali District and Tamsui on one side, and out towards the mountains of Pingxi on the other. Harnesses on and locked in for safety, we were able to roam around the deck, taking in 360 degree views from a viewpoint very few get to experience.

I’m more of a mountain and forest guy rather than a city type, but this was right up my alley. I felt as if I was high up on the mountain peaks, taking in an epic sunset that Taiwan so often offers to those who choose to experience them.

This was a unique experience within Taipei City. Taipei 101 is worth the visit, but to explore the building on this level - the TOP level - is a must. I highly recommend it!

A not-so-flattering shot of myself at the top!

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If you’re interested in checking out the Skyline 460 Tour yourself, you can do so via this link HERE!

Snow Mountain (雪山) Trekking

Taiwan is home to some incredibly challenging and beautiful high mountain peaks. Most of the challenging treks are more off the radar, but one peak to get your blood pumping is Snow Mountain! Snow Mountain has a few peaks of varying difficulty, and require different permits to climb. Recently we took a trip up Snow Mountain Main Peak, Taiwan’s second highest peak. Check the trip below!

Day 1

We chose to camp in Wuling Farms campground, where we find it more comfortable than spending night one in Qika Hut with other hikers. There is always the chance to see wildlife here, especially Formosan Rock Macaques and Red and White Giant Flying Squirrels. Were were greeted by both at night, which tells you locking up food is important!

Japanese White Faced Flying Squirrel hanging out above the campsite.

Day 2

After checking in at the police station its time to hit the trailhead! Generally a short, informative video on Snow Mountain and mountain safety is screened to all climbers at the trailhead ranger station. Because it was a weekday, the station was closed. We continue on for 2km, mostly straight up switchbacks, until Qika Hut. Many people choose to sleep here on Day 1, and continue to 369 Cabin on Day 2, we chose to treat this as a quick rest stop before powering on towards the East Peak.

While winding up the mountain and through the forest keep your eyes out for Reeve’s Muntjacs, Serows, Formosan Rock Macaques, and all of the varied bird species scattered throughout. The trail to East Peak takes roughly 2 hours from Qika Hut, but before reaching the peak you’ll have to climb whats known as the “Crying Slope.” It looks more intimidating that it is! After roughly 30 minutes the East Peak is in sight!

Hiking up the Crying Slope.

After ascending to the East Peak of Snow Mountain (3201m), it’s a short trip down to 369 Cabin (3100m) where we rest for the night. The trip is roughly 5 hours of hiking and can be done with enough time for a nap and a sunset viewing.

A massive rainbow descends over the mountains at sunset.

Day 3

We wake up early, 2:00am, to depart by 2:30am. This allows us enough time to reach the Main Peak for sunrise. The climb is challenging from here, through the black forest, up the steep slope of loose rock. It gets very dark inside the black forest, and in turn, exhilarating. Under the glow of our headlamps we spotted sleeping deer, and heard numerous amphibians, owls, and more. 

After three hours and a brutal last kilometer uphill, the peak is in reach! Snow Mountain Main Peak is Taiwan and East Asia’s second tallest mountain peak. From here it is easy to see the majority of high mountains in Taiwan. We had an amazing sunrise, complete with high fives and big smiles shared with every hiker who came up after us.

The trail up to Snow Mountain Main Peak.

Looking down at the basin lends a feeling of gratitude, amazement, and accomplishment. Its an easier trek down, where we eat breakfast and drink coffee at 369 Cabin before cruising towards the trailhead.

Looking down at the basin from Snow Mountain Main Peak.

One motivation for ascending at night is to see the sunrise from the peak. There is no better feeling to us than watching a new day rise from the top of Taiwan’s tallest mountains.

Formosan Serow hopping around the Black Forest.

Another perhaps unexpected joy of ascending at night, is the experience of descending through the terrain you conquered with a headlamp. The Black Forest on Snow Mountain is spectacular. The beauty of the pines and junipers surround you, while birds and wildlife come alive in the wee hours of the morning. On this particular trip the endemic Taiwan Serow graced us with its presence!

After the trek down the mountain we pack up the car and head back to Taipei! Snow Mountain is an epic climb, and if you are interested in experiencing this for yourself, you can contact me.