Nenggao Historic Trail (能高古道) West Section Trek

The Nenggao Historic trail (能高越嶺古道) is a beautiful trek into the high mountains of Taiwan. While you explore Nenggao, you will be able to take in its rich history. The history between the Japanese and Aboriginal tribes is evident as you cross from Wushe to Tianchi, and up to Qilai South Peak. See the area once used as hunting grounds for the local tribes. During the Japanese occupation era the trail was used to subdue the tribes. As you hike to Qilai South Peak under the stars the famous “Sea of Clouds” will emerge. You can take this incredible hiking trail to the many mountain peaks above, or all the way to Hualien!

DAY 1

Typically the first day of the journey begins with a trip from Taipei, Taichung, or any other western city of Taiwan to Nantou County. There are plenty of options to stay once you arrive. If you arrive too late and cannot find a B&B in the area, you can always camp at the trailhead. This makes for an early start the next morning!

DAY 2

Be sure to wake up early, eat some breakfast and have some coffee, because the journey ahead is a long one! The hike takes roughly 13 kilometers to Tianchi hostel. On the way to camp, you will pass landmarks that tell stories of the Wushe Incident, when chief of Mahaibu Village Mona Rudao, rallied rival headhunting tribes together to rebel against the Japanese army.

The hike spans across three suspension bridges and a few landslides, one roughly 1000 meters long!

While hiking keep an eye out for the wildlife such as the Golden Weasel, Formosan Macaque and Mikado Pheasant.

Before making the trip you will have to decide whether you want to camp or stay at Tianchi Lodge. If you want to stay inside the lodge, or camp on one of the new platforms outside, you will have to make arrangements beforehand with Tianchi Lodge here. If you choose to camp, I suggest hiking the extra 2 kilometers or so to Tianchi Pond and setting up shop there. The area is sparse with people, and is nice and open. Be sure to hike up to Nanhuashan for sunset, as its absolutely spectacular!

Day 3

Wake up at 2am for a two hour hike to Qilai South Peak (3,381m)! Trekking under the stars and through the yushan cane will take you to the top, where you can view stunning mountain groups such as the Hehuanshan mountain peaks and Qilai mountain peaks.

After taking in the sunrise descend to Tianchi Hostel, eat breakfast, pack up camp and depart for the city. Its a long last day, but you’ll find the hike to be spectacular. The terrain varies greatly over the course of the trek, and in good weather this is one of the nicest high mountain trips in Taiwan.

Snow Mountain (雪山) Trekking

Taiwan is home to some incredibly challenging and beautiful high mountain peaks. Most of the challenging treks are more off the radar, but one peak to get your blood pumping is Snow Mountain! Snow Mountain has a few peaks of varying difficulty, and require different permits to climb. Recently we took a trip up Snow Mountain Main Peak, Taiwan’s second highest peak. Check the trip below!

Day 1

We chose to camp in Wuling Farms campground, where we find it more comfortable than spending night one in Qika Hut with other hikers. There is always the chance to see wildlife here, especially Formosan Rock Macaques and Red and White Giant Flying Squirrels. Were were greeted by both at night, which tells you locking up food is important!

Japanese White Faced Flying Squirrel hanging out above the campsite.

Day 2

After checking in at the police station its time to hit the trailhead! Generally a short, informative video on Snow Mountain and mountain safety is screened to all climbers at the trailhead ranger station. Because it was a weekday, the station was closed. We continue on for 2km, mostly straight up switchbacks, until Qika Hut. Many people choose to sleep here on Day 1, and continue to 369 Cabin on Day 2, we chose to treat this as a quick rest stop before powering on towards the East Peak.

While winding up the mountain and through the forest keep your eyes out for Reeve’s Muntjacs, Serows, Formosan Rock Macaques, and all of the varied bird species scattered throughout. The trail to East Peak takes roughly 2 hours from Qika Hut, but before reaching the peak you’ll have to climb whats known as the “Crying Slope.” It looks more intimidating that it is! After roughly 30 minutes the East Peak is in sight!

Hiking up the Crying Slope.

After ascending to the East Peak of Snow Mountain (3201m), it’s a short trip down to 369 Cabin (3100m) where we rest for the night. The trip is roughly 5 hours of hiking and can be done with enough time for a nap and a sunset viewing.

A massive rainbow descends over the mountains at sunset.

Day 3

We wake up early, 2:00am, to depart by 2:30am. This allows us enough time to reach the Main Peak for sunrise. The climb is challenging from here, through the black forest, up the steep slope of loose rock. It gets very dark inside the black forest, and in turn, exhilarating. Under the glow of our headlamps we spotted sleeping deer, and heard numerous amphibians, owls, and more. 

After three hours and a brutal last kilometer uphill, the peak is in reach! Snow Mountain Main Peak is Taiwan and East Asia’s second tallest mountain peak. From here it is easy to see the majority of high mountains in Taiwan. We had an amazing sunrise, complete with high fives and big smiles shared with every hiker who came up after us.

The trail up to Snow Mountain Main Peak.

Looking down at the basin lends a feeling of gratitude, amazement, and accomplishment. Its an easier trek down, where we eat breakfast and drink coffee at 369 Cabin before cruising towards the trailhead.

Looking down at the basin from Snow Mountain Main Peak.

One motivation for ascending at night is to see the sunrise from the peak. There is no better feeling to us than watching a new day rise from the top of Taiwan’s tallest mountains.

Formosan Serow hopping around the Black Forest.

Another perhaps unexpected joy of ascending at night, is the experience of descending through the terrain you conquered with a headlamp. The Black Forest on Snow Mountain is spectacular. The beauty of the pines and junipers surround you, while birds and wildlife come alive in the wee hours of the morning. On this particular trip the endemic Taiwan Serow graced us with its presence!

After the trek down the mountain we pack up the car and head back to Taipei! Snow Mountain is an epic climb, and if you are interested in experiencing this for yourself, you can contact me.